After three
and a half seasons in the Eastern Caribbean, the islands have become familiar
and comfortable. We see familiar faces
in most anchorages, either locals we have interacted with or cruisers we have
met.
There is
absolutely nothing wrong with “familiar and comfortable,” but it is perhaps a
sign that it is time for new adventures.
Our good friends Rod and Jill on s/v Lookfar made the hop to the ABC islands
last year, and have raved about them – so we decided to visit them as well.
ABC stands
for Aruba, Bonaire, and Curacao. All
three are associated with the Netherlands, though the political arrangements
are a bit different for each. They
really should be called the BCA, since that is the order you encounter them as
you travel from East to West.
We really
wanted to visit St. Lucia, Dominica, and the Saintes one more time before
departing – it could be a few years before we are back in the Eastern
Caribbean. We therefore decided to start
our passage from the Saintes. This means
a trip of about 475 nautical miles, which for Callisto in the trade winds takes
around three days.
It is
certainly possible for two people to sail that distance on their own. Even one person can manage. But it is a lot less stress if there are
three people to share watch-keeping duties.
Three hours on and six hours off is much more comfortable than four
hours on and four hours off.
We
advertised in the sailing forum of the Seven Seas Cruising Association for
someone to join us as crew, and were lucky to make contact with Jonathan
Caldwell. Jonathan is about David’s age,
has quite a lot of sailing experience on his own boat and on others, and turned
out to be a very pleasant person to spend time with. He flew into the airport on Dominica, and we
sailed to the Saintes to enjoy a couple of day’s recreation before departing.
We estimated
that we could average about 7 knots sailing downwind in the tradewind
zone. Callisto is certainly capable of
faster speeds, but sailing faster would require more careful attention to
conditions and more frequent sail changes.
At 7 knots, it takes about 66 hours to cover the distance. It is sensible to plan arrival for around
noon. That way, if you are a few hours
early or a few hours late, you still arrive in daylight.
So, on
January 24 just before 6:00 pm we set off.
The weather forecast was for 15-20 knots from the East-North-East, and
for waves of 5-7 feet. This time of year
in the tropics, weather forecasts are quite accurate looking out three
days. Once we rounded Terre-de-Bas, we
set the sails on Port tack for the long trip to Bonaire.
Our trip
went very much according to plan. We
initially sailed a bit south of our optimum course, working to keep the
headsail full as we headed nearly downwind.
We made this up on Sunday, gybing onto Starboard tack for a few
hours. When we gybed back, we decided to
sail on the genoa alone – no mainsail.
We lost a bit of speed (maybe a knot), but could sail our optimum course
directly and didn’t have to worry about a wind shift causing an accidental
gybe.
The rhythm
of long passages takes a while to get established. We were just really getting in the groove
when we reached the end of our journey.
David made a wisecrack: “We should
keep going until we reach Panama!”
But it was really only half joking.
Monday
morning, as we got nearer and nearer to Bonaire, we began to look for signs of
land. David and Jonathan both caught
sight of Bonaire almost simultaneously.
As you approach, the more mountainous northern section is visible
first. The southern section of the
island is very low (in fact it is made up of salt flats; Bonaire has a large
commercial salt extraction business), and we didn’t seen the southern point
until we were within a very few miles.
Our arrival
was at 12:30 pm on January 27, almost exactly as planned. The entire island of Bonaire is a marine
sanctuary, and no anchoring is permitted.
They have very convenient and well-maintained moorings, though, and we
tied Callisto up without any excitement.
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