We arrived
in Dominica nearly three weeks ago, and with the exception of a couple of days
at Iles des Saintes have been on a mooring in Portsmouth. We have made several more taxi tours of the
island, and continued to learn about the impact of Hurricane Maria.
The damage
to vegetation and habitations varied quite a bit from place to place, with the
Southeastern part of the island hit the hardest. While many trees have started to leaf out in
other places, in parts of the Southeast
they are mostly still bare and probably dead.
There are a couple of towns on the West side of the island, tucked into protected
valleys, that saw little wind damage compared to the rest of the island. On a hopeful note, Gretchen and I can easily
see that the leaf cover is already thicker than when we arrived. There are a few palm trees that appear to have
their full complement of fronds.
A major
problem for rebuilding will be the electrical grid. There are downed power lines basically
everywhere, usually a rats nest at the utility poles the villages. Many poles are leaning at a 30° or 45° angle,
others are snapped off at the base. We
saw several crews working to replace utility poles and string new power lines,
but its an enormous task. Even in the
larger towns of Portsmouth and Roseau, few buildings have power. The big IGA
grocery store near Ross Medical School has lights, but not enough power to run
refrigerators or freezers, so most of their stock is bottles or cans. It's hard to imagine how long it will be
before people can take electricity for granted again. A few people have generators, but they use a
lot of expensive fuel, and most can’t afford to run them very often or for very
long. Even when electricity returns to a neighborhood, the power company won’t
hook a house up unless it has a roof, which leaves folks in the dark.
The main
hardware store in Portsmouth has a model of a roof, showing the correct way to
brace the rafters and attach the corrugated roofing. With money and materials very scarce, though, I’m afraid
that many people can’t afford the stronger construction.
We have
heard many stories from Dominicans of where they spent the night of the
hurricane and how they felt. Our friend
Alexis had built his own house using dense local woods, specifically thinking
about making it hurricane proof. It was
one of the few houses in the neighborhood to escape damage, but he tells of
being terrified during the storm, never knowing when the roof might come off or
the house might get blown off its foundation.
He said there was constant noise of debris hitting the side of his
house. There are stories of elderly
people who literally were scared to death, suffering heart attacks from fear.
We were told
that in the immediate aftermath of the storm 24,000 people left Dominica for
other islands, or even going all the way to the UK. Out of a population of only 70,000, that’s
enormous. More than half have already
returned, but I think that there will be a permanently lower population here.
The Medical
School has moved its operations, first to a cruise ship anchored off St. Kitts,
then in January to Knoxville, TN. It has been an important driver of the Dominican
economy, and many businesses that catered to students and faculty have been
shuttered. We understand that they
intend to resume teaching on Dominica, but have heard various theories about
when.
The people
here are extremely proud of the progress they’ve made in rebuilding, and
hopeful about the future. We have seen
many welcoming smiles as we travel about.
They understand how important visitors are to the economy, and are very happy
to see the yachting industry starting to return to normal. We wish them all the best, and are looking
forward to seeing the progress they’ve made when we return next year.